Ingredients to avoid in a moisturizer

Choosing the perfect moisturizer for your skin can sometimes feel like a treasure hunt. With so many products available and a little apprehension about what we apply to our skin every day, the quest for the perfect cream can become a real headache. But do not panic ! We are here to guide you.

Here's a list of ingredients to avoid when choosing a moisturizer, along with reasons why they may be harmful. Get ready to make informed choices and take care of your skin with renewed confidence!

Parabens , such as methylparaben, ethylparaben, propylparaben and butylparaben, are commonly used as preservatives in cosmetic products to prevent the growth of bacteria and fungi.

However, these substances are also endocrine disruptors. They can mimic estrogen, disrupting the hormonal system and potentially increasing the risk of breast cancer . “Long-chain” parabens are of particular concern and are considered high risk by the environmental advocacy group EWG. As a precaution, it is recommended to avoid all parabens indiscriminately.

Although parabens are effective in preserving cosmetic products, their potential hormonal effects make them undesirable. And yes, even your moisturizers can have a secret life as hormone disruptors!

Key figure: 40% of creams on the market contain parabens.

Sulfates, such as sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS) and sodium laureth sulfate (SLES), are commonly used in skincare products. However, they can be very harsh on the skin, causing irritation , excessive dryness and breakdown of the skin barrier.

For sensitive or irritation-prone skin, sulfates are particularly problematic and should be avoided. Although widely used and generally recognized as safe at low concentrations, some countries and organizations recommend limiting their use, especially in products intended for sensitive skin.

Key figure: 25% of moisturizers contain sulfates.

Phenoxyethanol is the superhero of preservatives, protecting your products against unwanted bacteria. But even superheroes have their flaws! It is associated with risks of toxicity to the liver and nervous system at high concentrations, and can also cause allergic reactions and skin irritation . Happy skin is healthy skin, so it's best to avoid this controversial preservative.

In Europe, the use of phenoxyethanol is regulated, with a maximum permitted concentration of 1%. In France, the National Agency for the Safety of Medicines and Health Products (ANSM) recommends limiting its use in baby products.

Key figure : 30% of moisturizing creams contain phenoxyethanol.

Silicones, like dimethicone and cyclopentasiloxane, are the masters of cosmetic deception. They offer a soft and silky texture, giving the impression of perfectly hydrated skin.

In reality, they form a superficial barrier, preventing the skin from breathing and renewing itself properly. Result ? Congestion problems and rashes . For true hydration, it's best to avoid them.

Although silicones are widely used and considered safe by many health authorities, their environmental impact is of concern, as they are not biodegradable.

Key figure: 40% of moisturizing creams contain silicones.

Mineral oils, like paraffin and paraffin oil, form a protective barrier on the skin. But be careful, they can also trap dirt and bacteria, leading to clogged pores and breakouts . Additionally, even if they are refined, they may contain potentially carcinogenic impurities. For glowing, carefree skin, it’s better to opt for more natural alternatives.

Although mineral oils are permitted in cosmetic products, their use is increasingly controversial due to their potential impacts on health and the environment.

Key figure: 35% of moisturizers contain mineral oils.

Butyl Hydroxytoluene (BHT) and Butyl Hydroxyanisole (BHA) are often used in moisturizers to prevent oxidation of ingredients and extend the life of the product. However, these synthetic antioxidants are not without controversy. Studies have shown that BHT and BHA can cause allergic reactions and skin irritation . Even more worrying, they are suspected of being endocrine disruptors and potential carcinogens . Some research suggests that these compounds may affect the hormonal system and be linked to cancers, making them undesirable in the products we use on our skin every day.

BHT and BHA are authorized in cosmetic products in limited concentrations. However, many health and safety organizations recommend minimizing their use, especially in products applied to a large area of ​​skin. The European Union has classified BHA as a potentially carcinogenic substance and has restricted its use in cosmetics. Many natural and organic product manufacturers have also chosen to avoid these ingredients as a precaution.

Key figure: 15% of creams contain BHT, while 5% contain BHA.

Polyethylene glycol (PEG) compounds, often identified as "PEG" or "ceteareth" followed by a number, are commonly used in moisturizers to improve the texture and consistency of products.

However, behind their effectiveness lie significant concerns. PEGs may contain harmful impurities , such as 1,4-dioxane, a probable carcinogen.

Additionally, these compounds can make the skin more permeable, increasing the penetration of other potentially irritating or toxic substances present in the product . For delicate skin, it is better to avoid these secretive chemical agents.

PEGs are permitted in cosmetic products, but their use is monitored due to possible impurities such as 1,4-dioxane. The European Union strictly regulates the levels of these impurities in cosmetics. However, in the United States, the FDA recommends that manufacturers eliminate these impurities but does not strictly require it. Consumers are therefore encouraged to choose products formulated without PEG to avoid any potential risk.

Key figures : 50% of moisturizers contain PEGs.

Diethanolamine (DEA) and its many cousins ​​– cocamides and lauramides DEA, DIPA, MEA, diisopropanolamine (DIPA), ethanolamine, monoethanolamine (MEA), triethanolamine (TEA) – are often used to improve the texture and lather of your moisturizers favorites. However, they hide much less pleasant secrets. DEA and its derivatives can react with other ingredients to form nitrosamines, compounds classified as carcinogenic by the International Agency for Research on Cancer (IARC). In addition, these substances can be irritating to the skin and eyes, and their prolonged use can lead to allergic sensitization. It is therefore better to avoid these ingredients for a safer and gentler skincare routine.

Although DEA ​​and other ethanolamines are widely used, their safety is increasingly questioned. The European Union has restricted their use in cosmetics, while other countries are calling for caution. It is wise to choose products without these compounds to minimize potential risks.

Key figures: 18% of creams contain ethanolamines.

Fragrances often add a touch of luxury and sensory pleasure to our moisturizers, transforming our skincare routine into a true olfactory experience. However, behind these captivating aromas lie potential risks for the skin. Synthetic fragrances are one of the main causes of skin irritation and allergies . They may also contain phthalates, well-known endocrine disruptors. Even natural fragrances, like essential oils, can cause reactions in sensitive skin. For truly happy skin, it is best to choose fragrance-free products.

Manufacturers are not required to disclose the exact composition of their perfumes, often referring to them by the generic term "fragrance" or "parfum" in the ingredient list. This makes it difficult for consumers to know exactly what they are applying to their skin. However, many health and wellness organizations recommend avoiding products with added fragrances, especially if you have sensitive or reactive skin.

Key figures : 45% of creams contain perfumes.

Colors make moisturizers visually appealing, but they aren't always safe for your skin. Some synthetic dyes can cause irritation and allergic reactions. Even more concerning, some dyes are derived from coal tar and contain potentially carcinogenic contaminants. Azo dyes, in particular, can release aromatic amines, substances suspected of being carcinogenic. To keep your skin healthy, it's wise to avoid products containing synthetic colors, especially if you have sensitive skin.

Many colorants are strictly regulated and their use in cosmetics is limited. The European Union, for example, has banned several dangerous dyes in cosmetic products. However, some permitted dyes may still pose risks, especially for people with sensitive skin.

Key figures : 35% of creams contain colorings.